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Today's Hot New Ingredients

By: Sam Dhatt
Posted: September 3, 2013, from the September 2013 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

Today’s ingredients are masters at communicating with cells, fighting photoaging and even repairing DNA with highly evolved defensive enzymes culled from the sea. They can restore youth to aged cells, fade dark circles under eyes and even brighten the mark of melasma.

The retinol enhancer: Allosteris

Not many single actives can so convincingly restore aging skin to a visibly younger-looking texture while stimulating collagen production as the retinoid family. Ever since Albert Kligman, MD, began his landmark research with retinoids in the 1960s, retinol has been widely regarded as the gold standard of anti-aging topicals for its crowning distinction of being able to regulate, rejuvenate and renew skin cells.

Yet, for every dermatologist lauding this precious commodity’s performance in aging skin, many of their clients are quitting their vitamin A regimen as soon as the redness, flakiness and irritation surface. That’s why it was nothing short of a breakthrough when Barnet Products Corporation started supplying a soy-based active complex known as Allosteris that improves the skin’s reception to signaling molecules, including retinol and peptides.

Using a 0.5% Allosteris concentration, researchers have been able to reduce the retinol percentage in a formulation to as little as 0.03% and achieve a 22% increase in skin cell replacement, according to research from Barnet. By using less retinol, formulators are now able to achieve the same effect of the active while reducing the irritation and expense, according to Barnet product information.

Even independent of other actives, Allosteris proves its worth. At a 1% concentration, Barnet claims this ingredient has demonstrated an ability to increase gene expression in keratinocytes and modulate fibroblasts. The company also claims that Allosteris helps increase hydration by 33% and decrease wrinkles by 56%, in addition to improving clarity and firmness—all without the irritating side effects of retinol.

Fighting photoaging with stem cells: verbascoside