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The Science of Aging Skin

By: Lydia Sarfati
Posted: June 1, 2009, from the June 2009 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

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It is important to nourish the skin at every age. (See Your Skin at Every Decade.) Although not as much emphasis is placed on skin care during youth because signs of aging and environmental aggressors are not as apparent, it is crucial to tend to the skin with facial treatments for prevention and regeneration, and an at-home regimen appropriate for age and skin type with ingredients that nourish and heal skin.

Facial treatments should include gentle desquamation and contain serums and anti-aging ingredients. Offer a classic European facial with a stimulating massage using my facial massage method (see “The Art of Facial Massage” by Lydia Sarfati from the April 2009 issue of Skin Inc. magazine), as well as a therapeutic and nourishing treatment that rejuvenates, tones, firms and restores moisture for younger-looking skin.

Pentapeptides. The technology of pentapeptides is an effective science patterned on a specific natural collagen fragment, which signals the cells to firm the epidermal/dermal junction. Amino acids are the smallest building blocks of protein. When several amino acids link, they form a peptide, and five form a pentapeptide. The messenger pentapeptides work through a wound-healing pathway, activating genes associated with collagen cross-linking.

Biopeptides. Biopeptides are rich in proline, glycine and lysine, which are similar to elastin and are able to block the production of elastase, the enzyme that breaks down elastin.

Red clover extract. Red clover extract is rich in plant hormones that mimic the effects of hormone therapy on estrogen-deprived skin. It is known to stimulate cell metabolism, increase protein synthesis, improve skin hydration, reduce wrinkles, and thicken the epidermis and dermis in postmenopausal skin.