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Skin Care Thinks Small to Deliver Big

By: Leslie Benson
Posted: August 6, 2008

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Anne-Laurie Rodrigues, marketing manager of Cognis France’s Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS), understands the pressures consumers place on brands for fast and potent results. “Consumers today have more product and service options than at any time in history. Information and transparency are crucial to enabling them to compare benefits and risks,” Rodrigues says. “Finding differentiating—but also credible, understandable and relevant claims—to develop products with immediately perceivable benefits represents a big challenge for the cosmetic industry for both suppliers and manufacturers.

“The rise of the cosmeceutical brands, or so-called ‘doctor’ brands, has recently witnessed consumer appeal,” she continues, “[To serve this consumer base], an increased number of active ingredients are being incorporated into products, promising a sustainable growth of cosmeceutical skin care products and challenging active ingredients suppliers. Cosmetic manufacturers are therefore constantly seeking even more effective and innovative cosmetic ingredients that combine identified mechanisms of action, demonstrate benefits and perfect skin tolerance in line with cosmetic regulation.”

Buzzing About Actives

Peptides—chains of amino acids that offer various skin care benefits and signal a body’s cells to perform specific functions—have been a hot skin care active because of their flexibility and performance. “There are peptides that firm the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles; there are others that combat the effects of stress, while others help reduce circles under the eyes, and still others that help the appearance of the skin’s barrier,” offers Beauty Avenue’s Lahanas.

Polypeptide 153 by Voss Laboratories’ Amatokin brand, for example, is a serum that triggers adult cell renewal using the stem cell reservoirs in one’s own skin, particularly useful in antiaging formulas.

And according to Freeze 24-7’s CEO and founder, Scott Gurfein, multifunctional antiaging skin care products fuel the growth of the skin care category. On the other side of the globe, France’s LS has developed two new tetrapeptides, dermican and syniorage, to enhance skin elasticity, firmness and radiance. In vitro tests and clinical trials with middle-aged female volunteers determined the actives’ efficacy after a few months of treatment.