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Hot New Ingredient: African Tiger Nut Extract for Anti-aging
Posted: May 7, 2008
With advancing age, skin loses its resistance and elasticity; it cannot escape its number one enemy--wrinkles. According to Silab, new data reveals these changes are due to the deterioration of a critical zone of the upper dermis that is closely linked to the dermo-epidermal junction: the papillary dermis.
Papilactyl D (INCI: Cyperus esculentus (tiger nut) tuber extract) is a new ingredient, launched recently at in-cosmetics, that combats this preferential target of intrinsic skin aging. Silab produced the ingredient from the African plant tiger nut and the ingredient reinforces the structure of the papillary dermis that is involved in the majority of the cutaneous tissue’s elastic properties: resilience, deformability and elasticity.
The company explained that the dermis harbors a diversity of matrix molecules organized in a highly dynamic structure that determines the biomechanical properties of the tissue. This macromolecular combination is divided into two dermal compartments, the papillary dermis and the reticular dermis, separated by a vascular plexus.
Research has shown the key role of the papillary dermis in the cohesion and the biomechanical properties of the skin. It provides the majority of the elastic properties of skin tissue: springiness, deformability and elasticity. The oxytalan microfibrils anchored perpendicularly to the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) play a shock-absorbing role. The nonfibrillar collagens XII and XVI, specific to the papillary dermis, are responsible for the integrity of the matrix and its properties of extensibility and deformability. The matrix collagens I and VI are organized to form a strong, flexible and functional network. To strengthen the characteristic structure of the papillary dermis, a primary target of skin aging, the company has introduced this new material.