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Hot New Ingredient: Bark Extract to Reduce "Inflammaging"
Posted: March 16, 2012
Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, now part of BASF Beauty Care Solutions, has introduced its bark extract that fights inflammation to reduce the signs of aging. Eperuline (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Eperua Falcata Bark Extract) was created based on the theory that chronic, low grade micro-inflammation leads to accelerated aging, known as “inflammaging.”
According to the company, this theory is well known phenomenon in the medical field. Conversely in cosmetics, inflammation and aging are often addressed independently. The micro-inflammatory state resulting from the activation of the NF-κB pathway and cytokine release, plasmin activity and release of neuropeptides, accelerates aging by inducing the release of reactive oxygen species and molecular damage, thus leading to a loss of tonicity, elasticity and firmness as well as a compromised skin barrier function.
The bark extract fights age-related micro-inflammation by: inhibiting plasmin serine protease, which is involved in skin barrier protection; inhibiting the NF-κB activation and cytokines release, which have action against mediators of inflammation; and inhibiting CGRP release, which has action against neurogenic inflammation. The result is less skin sagging, reinforced skin barrier integrity and improved skin firmness and elasticity.
The bark extract is recommended at 1% in anti-aging skin care for anti-sagging, firming and skin tonicity.