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The Next Generation of Anti-aging

By: Abby Penning
Posted: January 30, 2012, from the February 2012 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

Anti-aging aspects are everywhere in beauty—from face creams and foundations to nutritional supplements and beyond. Although new anti-aging ingredients are introduced all the time, this market segment is also widening its reach by further developing the idea of what makes for youthful skin, as well as the audience to which anti-aging beauty products should be targeted.

Anti-aging is no longer just about reducing fine lines and minimizing wrinkles. The trick for youthful, healthy skin also lies in skin that is hydrated, evenly toned and textured, and supple. “Even though no two people are alike in their wants and needs for skin care, studies show that today’s consumer wants a product that addresses all seven signs of aging: dehydration, fine lines, wrinkles, skin discoloration, large pores, and loss of elasticity and fullness. The product that can address all of these issues and make a consumer’s dollar go farther will be a forerunner,” says Jessica Sappenfield, general manager of Cellure Stem Cell Skin Care.

Additionally, anti-aging beauty products aren’t just for baby boomers anymore. Preventive skin maintenance is a huge trend right now, so even young consumers are being identified as potential targets for anti-aging products. “Our target market is anyone over 20,” says Detlef R. Fuhrmann, president and CEO of Immupure LLC, a skin care line that uses colostrum, a nutrient found in the pre-milk produced by mammals. “You have to start protecting and preserving the skin early in order for it to look and stay healthy, and although we have many customers in the 35–40 and older age range, if you don’t start using good moisturizer and skin care products and habits in your 20s, it’s much harder to maintain good skin.”

Eric Bernstein, MD, a dermatologic laser surgeon and founder of the LaseResults skin care line, who has studied the biology of skin for more than 20 years, notes that good anti-aging ingredients need to address the right problems. “You have to understand the science of what is going wrong in the skin,” he says. “Photodamage hurts the skin directly while in the sun, then over time due to chronic inflammation. To correct that, you want a combination of ingredients that will protect the skin from any detrimental effects and also stimulate the repair process.”

Sappenfield adds, “A good anti-aging ingredient should not only be effective in reversing the signs of aging, but also help prevent further damage. Day after day, your skin is attacked by environmental elements, such as pollution, sun and temperature, and that makes protection key.”