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From Inspiration to Innovation

By: Lisa Doyle
Posted: December 30, 2011, from the January 2012 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
From Inspiration to Innovation

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Despite more than a decade on the market, suppliers are continuing to keep peptides groundbreaking. “Our vendors are bringing new peptides every week,” says Gadberry, noting that discovering new uses for peptides keeps them fresh and in demand. “They started out as good anti-agers for firming and wrinkle correction. Now, we’re looking at them for skin lightening, hypopigmentation, rosacea and acne, and there are even foaming peptides. We’re going to see a very, very big blowout in peptide technology, and we are going to see a lot from it in the next few years.”

According to Art Rich, PhD, founder and chief consultant of A. Rich Development in Chestnut Ridge, New York, one key selling point of peptides is that they seem both high-tech and natural simultaneously. “The use of the peptide molecules to provide benefits at targeted sites is a bio-techno idea that gives the consumer a feeling that these ingredients are part of the life cycle, and are also thought to be of natural origin.”

A natural connection

Consumers want highly advanced skin care, but they often want it from ethical, sustainable sources, and to be as “natural” as possible. One example of this is the increase in the use of plant extracts in personal care. According to Rich, “The use of extracts from berries—such as cranberries and blueberries—as a natural source of powerful antioxidants to improve skin appearance and function,” is a trend to watch. Moreover, the crossover between the personal care and nutraceutical segments is becoming more evident as nature’s edibles are maximized for their anti-aging powers. “The nutritional supplement business will look to incorporate personal care innovations into its product mix,” he adds.

As consumers are becoming more environmentally aware, the importance of an ingredient’s origin is increasing more and more. “Today, we need not only insist on the fact that proposed ingredients must be approved everywhere from a regulation perspective, but that they must be aligned with our customers’ expectations about sustainable development, respect of the environment, and of the biodiversity and ethical use,” Perrier explains. “We will focus our efforts more and more on ingredients that are in support of our values in the future to reinforce our implications with the values of our customers.”

CoValence achieves this aim with its plant stem cell offerings. “With consumers increasingly concerned about sustainability, plant stem cells connect with consumers on many levels in the fight to stay young,” notes Orozco. “The technology allows us to tap into rare natural resources, far surpassing standard extracts in purity and potency, without harming the environment. The technology intrigues consumers, as it seems almost futuristic while being nature-made. It’s the best of both worlds.”