Treatment How-to: Retinol Facial with Dermal Needling

This facial treatment helps reduce and prevent pigmentation; brightens and evens skin tone; reduces fine lines and wrinkles; and soothes and reduces irritation.

Duration: 60 minutes

Cost: $125

Contraindications:Do not perform on clients who are pregnant/nursing, or have active acne or compromised skin.

Supplies and equipment needed:

Treatment table

Rubber gloves

Gauze pads

Dermal needle device—0.3 mm

Products needed:

Glycolic cleanser

Alcohol/glycolic acid prepping solution

Retinol (4%)

Loose powder with SPF 30

Step 1: Complete a thorough consultation with the client and have her sign a consent form.

Step 2: Emulsify the cleanser with warm water. Apply to the face, and then remove. Repeat.

Step 3: Complete a thorough skin analysis of cleansed skin.

Step 4: Place gloves on hands, and prepare the skin with the prepping solution by applying the solution to a gauze pad. Wipe the face with the gauze pad, beginning with the forehead, followed by the cheeks and nose, and work down and around the face. Avoid the eye area, ears and lips. Allow the application to dry for two minutes.

Step 5: Using the dermal needle device—0.3 mm, start to roll at the forehead, remember to roll vertical, horizontal and diagonal in both directions. You should roll 4–5 passes in each direction until even erythema is achieved. Gauge the amount of pressure you should use depending upon your client’s sensitivity and skin response. Any wrinkles or sagging skin must be held taut, and the skin should be stretched with your fingers and flattened before rolling. Divide face left and right, and repeat for each side.

Step 6: Apply the retinol 4% to the skin. This enhances the overall results of the dermal needling treatment and expedites the peeling process. Do not apply moisture to the skin for five hours after the peel application.

Step 7: Apply loose powder with SPF 30 on the skin for appropriate sun protection.

Step 8: Have client schedule a follow-up appointment in 7–10 days to assess the skin’s progress through a peel and hydrating facial. Provide the client with post-treatment home care products and written instructions. A gentle cleanser to aid in the healing process, a strengthening serum to help maintain and reconstruct collagen, a hydrating moisturizer that contains antioxidants to assist is the skin’s natural healing process and finally a physical sunscreen with a protection of an SPF 30 or higher should be included. This treatment should be done in a series of three, 3–4 weeks apart, so be sure to schedule additional appointments before the client leaves.

















Credit: Photos courtesy of DermaQuest Therapy.