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What Does “Antiglycation” Mean?

By: Rhonda Allison
Posted: July 31, 2014, from the August 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

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There are a number of cutting-edge ingredients that may be used in the treatment room and at home to lend support to skin that is weakened or challenged by a skin condition. In the treatment room, however, skin disorders must always be approached with caution.

  • Always conduct a skin analysis or patch test.
  • Use trusted formulas.
  • Know every step of the treatment protocol before beginning.
  • With skin reactions, less is more.
  • Never perform a treatment if doubt is present.

After proper diagnosis and testing, treatments teamed with the right home care will begin the process of bringing a client’s skin back to health. For instance, with hyperpigmentation, most skin can be treated with melanin suppressants, such as hydroquinone, natural botanical brighteners, such as Bellis perennis, and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). Microdermabrasion and other peeling methods can also be utilized.

For acne, treatments vary greatly, but may include enzymes, such as papaya, citrus, vegetables or milk; AHAs, such as glycolic or lactic acid; retinol and retinaldehyde; salicylic acid and other acid compounds, such as low-strength trichloroacetic (TCA), azelaic or mandelic acid. Microdermabrasion may also work well.

With rosacea, the client should eliminate products containing dyes, preservatives and fragrances. These are common triggers that, if eliminated, will often calm the skin. Peel treatments also work to bring new, healthy skin to the surface, helping skin become less irritated and reactive.

For eczema and psoriasis, lactic acid or flower acids may work to bring new cells to the surface and provide hydration. Other low-strength acids combined with hydrogen peroxide will also increase circulation and control bacteria.