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What Does “Antiglycation” Mean?

Rhonda Allison August 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine
What Does “Antiglycation” Mean?

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Lately, there has been a lot of buzz about glycation and antiglycation products, and how they impact the skin. Having a working knowledge about glycation will shed some light on the subject; however, it begins with proper diagnosis, understanding the root cause, and knowing which treatments and ingredients to turn to.

Diagnosing the challenge

There are numerous disorders that affect the skin. The most common include acne, eczema, hyperpigmentation, psoriasis, rosacea and skin cancer. Although each of these stem from a similar base of intrinsic and extrinsic factors, they all manifest in different forms—and effective treatment starts with proper diagnosis.

The following information will help professionals learn how to identify the most common challenges encountered.

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Treatment How-to: Rosacea Peel

Duration: Approximately 45 minutes

Cost: $95–125

Note: Proper training should be acquired before administering a peel.

Contraindications: Clients should not be on tretinoin or isotretinoin; or be pregnant, lactating or prone to herpes simplex—unless on a herpes zoster virus nucleoside analog DNA polymerase inhibitor. Avoid rendering treatment on clients with sunburned skin or anyone on multiple medications. This treatment is safe for sensitive skin types.

Products needed:

Cleanser (green tea- and salicylic-based)

Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) solution

Salicylic-based peeling cream

Hibiscus-based flower acid solution

Vitamin A and peptide peel solution (optional)

Skin-nourishing serum containing ingredients from deep-sea waters

Supplies needed:

Warm water

Soft 2-inch gauze

Firm brush

Protective gloves

Hand-held fan

Glass beaker

Step 1: Prep the skin. Cleanse skin by massaging the cleanser into the skin. Remove all surface residue and makeup. Rinse with tepid water and soft gauze. Perform a second cleanse, rinsing again with warm water. Blot dry.

Step 2: Pre-peel application. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with a lipid-reducing AHA solution to stimulate collagen activity and provide anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial support. Apply to the face and neck where it will remain to absorb into the skin.

Step 3: Acid application. Apply peeling cream to the face and neck with a brush. Wearing protective gloves, smooth the cream into the skin. It should remain on the skin 10–15 minutes. Provide the client with a hand-held fan to help reduce discomfort from the heat. Rinse skin with tepid water and gauze. Proceed with additional rinses and examine the skin for any irritations or unusual frosting.

Step 4: Final acid. Pour a small amount of hibiscus-based flower acid solution into a glass beaker and apply one even layer on skin using a firm brush. Use caution not to drip directly onto the skin. Let this absorb into the skin and watch it closely. Allow this layer to process fully before rinsing the solution off and proceeding. Note: If a deeper peel is desired, the vitamin A and peptide peel solution may now be applied and left on the skin.

Step 5: Finishing serum. Gently pat several drops of a skin-nourishing serum onto the skin, which will provide promitochondria support, remineralize, strengthen and protect skin tissue.

Step 6: Post peel. Send clients home with skin-building, nourishing formulas containing epidermal growth factors, vitamins A and C, and sea buckthorn oil, as well as zinc-based protection. Instruct clients to avoid harsh scrubs or exfoliants.

Anti-AGEs Ingredients for Home Care

Some intelligent, healthy and anti-AGEs ingredients include the following.

  • Albizia julibrissin bark extract, also known as silk or mimosa tree
  • Alpha tocopherol
  • Ascorbic acid
  • Centella asiatica
  • Epidermal growth factors (EGF)
  • Fructooligosaccharides
  • Glucosamine HCI
  • Glycine soya
  • Kombuchka black tea ferment
  • L-glutathione (tripeptide)
  • Omega 6 essential fatty acids (linoleic and oleic acid)
  • Peptides
  • Resveratrol
  • Turmeric

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