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10 Things You Must Know About Acne

By: Deedee Crossett
Posted: December 4, 2013, from the December 2013 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

Check out these tips for acne from some of Deedee’s friends in the skin care industry.

Rebecca James Gadberry, YG Laboratories. “Recent evidence shows open comedones can become inflamed very easily due to neutrophils clustering around pore openings waiting for inflammatory lipids in the pore to multiply. When this happens, the cells are in place to do battle and acne commences.”

@VEGAskincare. “Instead of picking at a blemish, use ice to reduce inflammation and swelling before applying a topical treatment.”

Annet King, Dermalogica. “Master your extraction method! Your manual extractions should be painless and, when performed correctly, should successfully remove the entire impaction from the base of the follicle.”

@MarissaLace, social media expert. “Wash your face twice and don’t forget ice!”

Corey S. Maas, MD. “Acne management is a pyramid of care. The foundation is cleansing and skin care. The large central segment is an algorithm: Medical therapy oral antibiotics and hormone adjustment birth control pills or energy therapy with photodynamic therapy and clear light. The top of pyramid is isotretinoin.”

@SFIEC. “Treat inflammation first, and know your Fitzpatrick scale and the differences in acne grades.”

Mark Lees, PhD, Mark Lees Skin Care. “Have clients use a 8–10% alpha/beta hydroxy or 2.5% benzoyl peroxide gel at home on a daily basis to flush microcomedones and keep them from re-occurring.”

Lydia Sarfati, Repêchage. “There are plenty of natural, effective and gentle treatments available for acne skin types. Porphyridium microalga is a seaweed that’s high in essential fatty acids, as well as vitamins B and C. This can be used in combination with zinc to help regulate sebum, moisturize and protect problem skin.”

Deedee Crossett, San Francisco Institute of Esthetics and Cosmetology.“Educate your clients on acne facts, such as genetics, what happens when they pick and benefits of regular treatment, as well as the myths.”

Dan Kern, www.acne.org. “Acne is an inflammatory disease, and physical irritation of the skin will aggravate this inflammatory response and perpetuate the acne cycle. It may seem counterintuitive, but when treating acne, avoid scrubbing or manual exfoliation. Instead, use a feather-light touch, and then leave the skin as untouched as possible for the rest of the day.”

Deedee CrossettFounder and owner of the San Francisco Institute of Esthetics and Cosmetology since 2002, Deedee Crossett is an industry pioneer for raising the bar of undergraduate education for cosmetologists and estheticians. She can be reached at www.facebook.com/deedee.crossett and Twitter @DeedeeCrossett #10things.