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• Treatment How-to: Express Facial

  Treatment How-to: Express Facial

  Cost: $75–105

  Duration: 20–30 minutes

  Contraindications: Omit the pepsin and papain enzyme if the client is sensitive or allergic to fruit extracts.

  Equipment and supplies needed:

  White cloth or gauze

  Products needed:

  Green tea- and salicylic-based cleanser

  Warm water

  Pepsin and papain enzyme

  Herb-based mask

  Arginine and mandelic acid serum

  SPF 30 sunscreen

  Step 1. For a quick-yet-effective service, start with a green tea- and salicylic-based cleanser to exfoliate cells and reduce surface bacteria. When cleansing, moisten the hands and smooth a small amount of cleanser onto the skin, covering the entire face, neck and décolleté. Massage for one to two minutes.

  Step 2. Using warm water and a white cloth or gauze, rinse away the cleanser with light pressure.

  Step 3. Rinse the cloth and wipe the skin again, checking the cloth to ensure there is no residual dirt or makeup left behind. It is your role as a skin care professional to set a good example for teens on the proper cleansing technique.

  Step 4. Apply a pepsin and papain enzyme to soften the cells and comedones, reduce inflammation and digest dead cells.

  Step 5. To boost the enzymes’ effect, follow with an herb-based mask, such as rosemary and basil. Leave it on for 10 minutes and remove with tepid water. This also will provide healing properties and give the skin a vibrant appearance. Blot the skin dry .

  Step 6. Apply a nourishing serum of arginine and mandelic acid to rejuvenate gently and deliver a potent dose of antioxidants and amino acids. Finish with a generous application of SPF 30 sunscreen.

• Assessing the Damage

  Assessing the Damage

  Skin assessments with each client will reveal a lot about their lifestyles and previous damage to the skin, but there are also a few other classification tools professionals may utilize to determine a client’s level of deterioration and susceptibility to future aging.

  The Glogau Classification of Photoaging, otherwise known as the “wrinkle scale,” helps determine the severity of the photodamage primarily visible in the form of discoloration and wrinkles. This tool helps in choosing a proper corrective treatment for individual clients based on the progression of photoaging for each skin type and the symptoms that may develop at various ages.

   

  Type I: No wrinkles—early photoaging

  ✓ Minimal-to-no discoloration or wrinkling

  ✓ No keratosis (skin overgrowth)

  ✓ Minimal or no makeup needed

   

  Type II: Wrinkles in motion—early-to-moderate photoaging

  ✓ Wrinkling as skin moves

  ✓ Slight lines near the eyes and mouth

  ✓ Early brown spots visible

  ✓ Keratoses palpable but not visible

  ✓ Usually a need for some makeup

   

  Type III: Wrinkles at rest—advanced photoaging

  ✓ Visible wrinkles all the time

  ✓ Noticeable discolorations

  ✓ Visible keratosis and capillaries (telangiectasias)

  ✓ Generally a need for heavy foundation

   

  Type IV: Only wrinkles—severe photoaging

  ✓ Wrinkles throughout with no normal skin

  ✓ Yellow-gray color to skin

  ✓ Prior skin malignancies

  ✓ Makeup not usable because it cakes and cracks