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By: Abby Penning
Posted: February 26, 2009, from the March 2009 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
Going green with washes of color on the lids and lining below the lashes gives the eyes a standout quality, while pale pink glossed lips and cheekbone-defining blush keep things light and springtime fresh. Makeup by jane iredale.
Dawning in the midst of a gloomy economy, spring, the traditional season of renewal, may not seem as refreshing this year. However, the incoming cosmetics colors—richly undertoned neutrals that blend with bold shades of blue, red, pink, green and yellow—may be just the thing to break through the gray gloom.
In fact, cosmetics have been acting as pick-me-ups during hard times for years. “Makeup is still an affordable luxury. There’s the popularity of talking about women in the Depression wearing red lipstick, but really that was all they had then; there was no variety of pigments,” explains Kevin Mendelson, makeup artist with jane iredale—The Skin Care Makeup. “Makeup reflects people’s choices now and can be a statement of the individual.” Alphonse Wiebelt, makeup artist, and co-founder and vice president of brand development for Being TRUE Cosmetics, also sees the theme of change making an individualistic impact. “This year we are facing a time where our opinions count, and we all have something we stand for. It is not a time to blend in,” he says.
Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute and founder of www.morealivewithcolor.com, agrees, noting that the array of exciting hues now available in shadows, lipsticks, blushes and even mascaras can help keep things interesting for those providing cosmetics services. “Makeup has got to offer alternatives,” she says, and makeup artist and beauty expert Candace Corey adds, “You can use this spring’s products in different manners, and that’s something special for the season.”
“It’s about what looks good and works for different skin tones, and makeup is more experimental and doesn’t cost as much, so you can play with more options,” Eiseman explains. “We can’t ignore that elephant in the room—the economy—but when you are going through bad times, people don’t aspire any less to looking good.”
All eyes on you
An entire palette of colors will be glimpsed gracing the eyes this spring, giving the face a fun spark. However, some of the shades will also take on a bit of an edge. “There’s going to be the usual spring pastels and pretty, bright pinks, but they’re being mixed in with a little darker, smoky eye,” says Philip Luque, a makeup artist with Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics. “It is softer and cleaner for the spring, though. Use a soft brush to apply any color, and don’t pack it on.” Wiebelt suggests using a neutral tone a shade lighter than the client’s natural skin tone for a base, sweeping the bolder color across the lid and along the bottom lash line, and blending the two together for a seamless effect.