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By Allyson Harold
Makeup, Allyson Harold/Mineralogie; Photographer, KC Montgomery Photographics
Step 1: Use a blending brush to apply a nude shadow primer on eyelids to create a smooth surface and allow shadow colors to vibrantly pop.
Step 2: Press a loose mineral eyeshadow in Hemlock with a blending brush. This technique provides maximum color coverage and allows you to soften edges for ethereal look.
Step 3: With a detail brush, apply a pressed mineral eyeshadow in Paloma into the crease of the eye, then diffuse the edges with a clean blending brush.
Step 4: Using a detail brush, apply the Paloma shadow as an eyeliner on the lower lash line.
Step 5: Dip an a Sand-colored liquid eye liner in a Dazzling Blue loose mineral eyeshadow and line upper lash line.
Step 6: Apply a brunette-colored loose mineral brow power to brows with an angle shading brush, then sweep through brows with a clear brow gel to groom and define.
Step 7: Starting on the apple of the cheeks, use an angle brush to apply loose mineral blush in Cayenne and blend toward the back of the cheekbones.
Step 8: Add a subtle cheek highlight by using the side of a large fluff brush to apply loose mineral highlighter. Then use the tip of the brush to create a soft halo effect.
Step 9: Use a lip brush to line and fill lips with watermelon-shaded lipstick. Add pink lip gloss to the center of lips to create a perfect pout.
Step 10: Finish the look with setting spray.
By Nika Vaughan
Freesia? Hemlock? Absolutely! For a splash of color this spring, skip the neutral tones, and add a sheer wash of something soft and unexpected for a daytime look.
Hair/makeup, Nika Vaughan—Ford Artists Chicago; Photographer, Billy Rood; Model, Khrystyna B.—Ford Models
Step 1: The magic word here is “sheer.” Lightly apply a Freesia-esque yellow shade from lashes into the crease, blending toward the inner eye area. Make sure to blend away any hard edges.
Step 2: To give this lemony, soft eye a little more contour, apply a subtle wash of a lighter Hemlock. Start at the outer corner of the eyelid, blend well into the crease and then gently across the lid.
Step 3: To keep this application from looking too dramatic, tone down the eyeliner. Try different shades of brown, such as Sand.
Step 4: If you want a daytime-friendly look with a bit of kick, try lightly dusting the lower eyelid just below the lower lashes with a little of the same yellow and then green shadow. This is when those extra small smudge or eye shadow brushes come in handy. A little of this makes a big impact, and really makes brown eyes look more intense.
Step 5: To finish off the look, try a warmer, more apricot-looking blush (instead of a cooler pink) and sheer gloss.
According to Pantone, the Fashion Color Report Spring 2014 is “inspired by a mixture of blooming flowers, travels abroad and strong, confident women.”1 Jaclyn Peresetsky, CEO, esthetician and color specialist at SkinPerfect Image Wellness Spa in Columbus, Ohio, notes this season’s palette is versatile—lending itself to those who care “to stay safe with pastels and monochromatic color schemes,” and “those who want to experiment with new looks can add the bold colors for an artistic flair.”
Allyson Harold, lead makeup artist and color trend specialist for Mineralogie, says the on-trend colors for the season are what’s expected for spring: feminine, inspired by nature and floral; however, they contain stronger notes, as well. “All colors evoke emotion, and this new palette gives you a variety of choices from calm and peaceful to exciting and confident,” says Peresetsky.
“There’s always a skin trend with every season, and [this season, there is] definitely that hard-to-achieve ‘no makeup’ makeup look,” says Harold. “It looks like your skin—like this is how you look all of the time—just perfected.”
Makeup artist James Edward, founder of J. Edward makeup and skin care products, explains that it’s all about a natural look. “The biggest thing I saw that was consistent was the skin … it’s supposed to look like a young, healthy skin. If you have freckles, it’s not necessarily covering them up; it’s letting them come through,” he says. This natural look can be achieved with tinted moisturizers and sport concealers to even out skin tone, as well as highlighters and illuminating products to brighten key areas, creating a youthful glow.2
Chicago-based makeup artist, Nika Vaughan, recommends revisiting cream products. “Most cream products nowadays are meant to be long-wearing—they’re not like the cream products back in the ,’70s and ’80s. They do that no-makeup look so well because they’re easy to blend—it looks like it’s coming from within the skin.” This draw toward flawless and fresh-looking skin—rather than heavily covered, matte skin—is especially ideal for creating statement looks with the eyes and lips. “The skin just looks so gorgeous and radiant that everything just stands out with it,” says James Cornwell, celebrity hair and makeup artist.