Cosmetics Sponsored by
Makeup and hair, Jo Candelaria; photographer, George Favios; and model, Sophie Warner of Vivian's Sydney
Makeup and hair, Donna Mee/www.donnameeinc.com; photographer, Gary Lyons; and model, Hanna Baldursdottir
This instructional makeover and “Bright Eyes”, both from Donna Mee, correctional makeup artist, features two different ways to show clients how to apply spring colors and trends.
Step 1: Following skin prep, use a synthetic bristle brush to apply a primer.
Step 2: For a radiant finish, mix one part shimmer luminizer with three to four parts of semi-matte or natural-finish foundation. Use concealer, if needed.
Step 3: Apply a Nectarine shade cream blush with a flat end, fiber optic or synthetic bristle brush using a stipple-type tapping motion.
Step 4: Set the foundation and lessen any T-zone shine with a light layer of loose face powder.
Step 5: Prime the eyelids using a favorite eye primer.
Step 6: Apply a matte eye shadow that matches the skin tone from the lash line to the brow bone.
Step 7: Lightly define the crease of the eye socket with a light brown, matte eye shadow.
Step 8: With a fine-tip eyeliner brush, apply a gel liner in Monaco Blue. Draw a continuous line starting very thin from the inner corner and flaring the line upward at the outer corners.
Step 9: Curl the lashes, and apply black mascara to both top and bottom lashes. For additional drama, add false eyelashes.
Step 10: To finish the look, use neutral lipstick or gloss.
Step 1: Following skin prep, apply a semi-matte/natural finish foundation with minimal coverage, but as desired.
Step 2: Contour and highlight the cheeks and nose with a sheer cream contour using a synthetic bristle brush.
Step 3: Layer a rosy cream blush with a synthetic flat tipped brush using a stippling motion.
Step 4: Set the foundation with a sheer layer of loose face powder dusted on with a natural bristle brush.
Step 5: Groom the eyebrows with a spoolie brush and add a touch of color if necessary.
Step 6: Apply a Lemon Zest eye shadow on inner eyelid area. Blend into a Nectarine under the eyebrow. Use African Violet in the outer crease and fade into the lash line.
Step 7: Finish the eye shadow with a sheer coat of Grayed Jade color under the lower lash line.
Step 8: On the inner rim of the eye, apply a black eye liner pencil. Finish lining the eye with a black liquid, cake or gel liner in an upward wing to accent the eye shape and angle.
Step 9: Curl lashes and apply a favorite mascara on top and bottom lashes.
Step 10: Finish the look with a sheer pink lip gloss.
Like a twist of lemon in your iced tea, spring is the season for clients to renew and refresh their look. “It’s time to open up to the possibilities, to express yourself in a new way,” says celebrity makeup artist Emily Katz. As clothes lighten up in texture and tone, so do lips, eyes and cheeks. Clean, bare skin will be an important focus this spring, with light and bright pops of color to bring attention to one feature, such as the eyes or lips.
The spring palette from Pantone mixes dynamic brights with novel neutrals to create a harmonious balance. This allows for unique combinations that offer practicality and versatility, but at the same time, demand attention.
“It’s almost as if fall’s deep, rich colors have been left outside to be bleached by the sun,” says KJ Bennett, celebrity makeup artist. “It’s a nice progression into summer—very beachy, light, crisp and clean.” The palette flips from the usually smoldering Miami summer to the cool side. “It’s a nice contrast, colors that are saturated but not heavy,” he continues. “They have depth, and are refined and sophisticated.”
The softer, muted and pretty color choices allow clients to focus on natural beauty, according to makeup artist Rachel Wood. “Real beauty is back,” she says.
Fall featured heavily made-up skin that was lush, dramatic and beautiful. “We’re switching it up for spring with a very clean face,” says Bennett. The look is nude and natural, featuring minimal lip color and little-to-no foundation, with an option for color-blocking on the eyes with architectural brows. Not even a lot of bronzer or a sun-kissed effect is on trend, according to Bennett. “But that doesn’t mean you have to leave the foundation at home,” he explains. The key is soft luminous foundation that looks like bare skin. Bennett suggests a good concealer that won’t cake or be heavy to spot conceal any skin issues. Then, if needed, apply a silicone-based moderate-to-sheer foundation that will not penetrate the skin. “It won’t cake, and provides coverage and a protective barrier for those with acne or texture issues,” he says.