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A Bright Outlook: Spring 2012 Color Preview

By: Cathy Christensen
Posted: February 28, 2012, from the March 2012 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
With dark hair and dark eyes, a combination of Cockatoo and Margarita can be stunning this spring.

With dark hair and dark eyes, a combination of Cockatoo and Margarita can be stunning this spring.

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According to Tricia E. Campbell, director of education for jane iredale, “People are looking for coverage, but they’re also seeking sheer-looking texture. Many want a matte finish on the skin, but they don’t like the feel of that heavy foundation.” To get that matte-looking finish, Campbell suggests using a primer, followed by an application of loose minerals with a nonlatex sponge in a pressing motion.

Another application suggestion for a clean, perfect-looking complexion involves using a water/gel foundation and a primer. “Definitely use a primer to help smooth those imperfections and then top it with a light foundation and a light dusting of powder to get a natural finish. You want clients to look natural and fresh with as flawless of a complexion as you can get,” explains Paquin.

According to Mee, much of makeup success comes from the right foundation, and helping clients identify the right option for them can solidify your role as a cosmetics coach for your clients. “You need to find out what coverage the client needs and what finish she prefers,” suggests Mee. “Most people don’t know how to match their foundation to their undertones ... they need to compare the shade to the color of their neck and chest. The whole purpose of foundation is to cover surface tones and bring out undertones.”

Blushes and bronzers

Once that perfect complexion has been established, color can be added to enhance the bone structure and offer a livelier look for spring. “People are getting away from the spray tanning and are using bronzers more often,” says Bennett. “That way, you can give a subtle color to the body and the face. All the colors are more on the rosy side than on the orange side.” McCarthy agrees, “Bronzers are going to offer a sun-kissed, warm glow. I’ve been doing a lot of light contouring, placing the bronzer on the face where the sun naturally hits, like on the hollows of the cheeks, at the hairline and on the sides of the nose. It adds warmth and shape to the face.”

Another major player in spring’s vibrant look is blush. Whether your client is leaning toward a more natural or a bolder look, blush can play a big part in adding a hint of color. “The cheek is very soft with a sheer pink or peach blush to go with a lot of spring colors,” explains Paquin. “If you are going with a nude face, you can do a sheer pink, and if you are doing intense color, you can still do a soft, sheer pink on the cheek and a sheer neutral on the lip.”