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A Season of Rebirth

By: Cathy Christensen
Posted: February 28, 2011, from the March 2011 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

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“Eyes will be more neutral, but will trend more toward orange-rust shades,” says Kevin Mendelson, global educator for Iredale Mineral Cosmetics. Cat Tatman, director of marketing for glo Professional, agrees. “The runways showed over-the-top bold colors. The playful nature of those colors translates to everyday for consumers. For example, if you see a bright orange eye shadow, it goes into a soft coral, pink or peach,” she says. Other colors abounded as well, including softer shades of darker colors. “There were also muted shades of blues, plums and browns, as well as some nice neutrals, taupes and lighter shades of brown,” explains Tatman.

Another trend for the eyes is the use of metallics this spring. “The metallics aren’t crazy colors and should be put on the lid in a sheer, subtle way. You can do a soft, smoky eye, not full on black for spring clients,” advises Philip Luque, director of education and artistry for Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics. And the smoky eye, which is still in style, has been re-tweaked to be a bit less intense this season.

“The smoky eye is still big, but it is being done using deeper, warmer browns with dark grays, and deep greens and purples. Even a little silver accent can brighten the look up for spring,” says celebrity makeup artist Emily Katz. Scott agrees, saying, “The smoky eye is going more blended and browner and softer. The nude lip and dark smoky eye has been done to death, and it’s time for clients to put that black eye liner pencil back in the drawer for a little while and get some light colors out.” Diluting some of the brighter trendy shades can provide just the trick. “You’re seeing that smoky look using colors that are all over the place, from every shade of purple to the palest lilac, and greens going from forest green to brilliant lime greens,” says Bennett. “If you do a clean, nude makeup and your client is wearing neutrals and browns, take a lime tone around the eye. It’s stunning.” Even neons have found a place in the sun this spring, although making these more wearable takes a bit of finesse. “The word ‘neon’ is being used a lot, even though its not neon like we used to think of it,” says Eiseman. “It’s a little more mellow.”

With all of these different colors in eye liner and eye shadows, Katz recommends using caution. “Makeup artists need to experiment with clients and check in on their level of comfort in regard to how dense their makeup is,” she says. “Runway looks are for theater for the most part; there are some eminently wearable looks, but many are theater. People tend to forget that.”

Although eye shadow and liner colors take the main stage, the brows are not to be forgotten. Still defined and full, they are a bit softer this season, says Luque. Katz agrees. “We’re looking at less brow,” she emphasizes. “It’s still defined, but not quite as intense as last season. That seems to be more of a winter idea. It’s a strong brow, but it’s not a strong, dark brow.”