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What’s New In Natural Ingredients

By: Kris Campbell
Posted: May 1, 2014, from the May 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
Albizia julibrissin

Albizia julibrissin

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Although there are many types of grape seed oil on the market for skin care, a new type called zinfandel (red) grape seed oil is being drawn into skin care formulations. It is very rich in a diversity of phytosterols (plant sterols). Antioxidant activity from vitamin E helps to create healthier skin. Zinfandel grape seed oil also is very rich in both omega-3 and -6 fatty acids. These help form the cell membrane building blocks and offer amazing anti-aging benefits.3

Mangosteen extract has been used in Thai folk medicine for centuries to treat infections of the skin and also to help in wound-healing. It is now being incorporated into different skin care formulations for its antioxidant qualities in regard to sensitive skin, as well as different SPF and anti-aging products. Mangosteen can help reduce inflammation in sensitive and severely dry skin. Acne/oily skin clients will also benefit, because it has antibacterial properties.

Honey is popping up all over in the skin care industry right now. Raw honey is good, but Manuka honey is better. Manuka honey is a monofloral honey produced in New Zealand and Australia from the nectar of the manuka tree. Manuka honey is considered “active,” meaning it bears such an extra-concentrated dose of antibacterial properties that it can actually be therapeutic to the skin. It is also anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, has antioxidant properties, and works well on a large range of skin types, from acne-oily to dry-dehydrated. Other interesting benefits include wound-healing; exfoliating; it reinforces the water-absorbing capacity of the stratum corneum; slows dehydration; and diminishes skin roughness while improving suppleness and elasticity.

Anti-glycation

Many companies are coming out with products to combat the premature slackening and aging of glycated skin. Albizia julibrissin is a new ingredient that is extracted from the bark of the Persian silk tree of the same name; it also is a very detoxifying ingredient for the skin. Studies from Sederma, the manufacturer of this ingredient, have shown that two months of application of a cream with the recommended levels result in reductions between 27–51% in the following areas: dark circles, drawn features, dull complexions and under-eye bags.

Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) has been used in skin care for several years and is known for its help with strengthening capillaries and veins, increasing elasticity and firmness, and wound-healing. All types of skin can receive aid for skin issues with gotu kola. With glycation being a big topic in skin care these days, a derivative of Centella asiatica—asiatic acid—has been shown to help fight glycated skin. Sensitive skin, especially eczema and psoriasis, will also benefit with asiatic acid’s large amounts of anti-inflammation qualities. Acne skin can also benefit from this ingredient, because it has antimicrobial and antibacterial benefits.4

Oily/acne