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Source of Innovation: The Story of Ingredients

By: Sara Mason
Posted: July 31, 2014, from the August 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
Buriti fruit

Buriti fruit

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By helping and collaborating with a customer, Evonik identified a solution and brought it into the marketplace at a commercial scale via Tego Stemlastin, an innovation that is part of the industry’s move toward algaculture within beauty and personal care. In a more recent collaboration, Evonik worked with a natural remedies producer to help find solutions for an environmental stress defense for skin. The result was Tego Cistus, a standardized plant extract highly enriched in polyphenols from the pink rock rose, a perennial shrub found on dry or rocky soils throughout the Mediterranean region. The active ingredient, Cistus incanus extract, provides protection by neutralizing free radicals to combat undesirable effects of sun exposure, reducing the appearance of sunburn. The medicinal plant makes new the old, as it has historical use in traditional European medicine, and Greek mythology reports use of the flower in healing warriors.

Trend tracking

Keeping up with the latest developments and news in beauty through different media, such as specialized journals and magazines, themed exhibitions and continuing education, is another key to innovation.

Cobiosa, an ingredient supplier based in Spain, looks for lifestyle trends determined by social, economic, technological and cultural changes in attitude and behavior. “In a globalized and standardized world, regionality and locality are creating specific desires,” says Lorena Sánchez, R&D with Cobiosa. “There is a trend toward natural, organic, botanic products and to rediscovering of ancient ingredients.” Based on its continued research and ongoing knowledge, as well as extensive experience with multinational companies, Cobiosa develops ingredients with the desired functionalities that meet these demands.

Cobiosa’s Pore Reductyl was developed to answer a demand for ingredients with astringent and oil-reducing effects. “Maintaining clean, healthy pores is important for maintaining healthy and healthy-looking skin,” Sánchez says. Thus, Cobiosa’s goal was to find a natural astringent of botanical origin with a higher bio affinity for the skin. The purified, concentrated active is extracted from the pulp of Fomes officinalis, a basidiomycete mushroom that grows in East Europe on the trunk of the alerce cypress tree, believed to be the second-longest-living type of tree on Earth. Cobiosa chose this mushroom because it is well known for its medicinal properties and because of its high purity agaric acid, which exhibits astringent, tightening and moisturizing properties.

Pore Reductyl can be used in a variety of beauty and skin care applications to enhance the action of anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and firming products, as well as in anti-irritants and cellular renewal products targeting wound-healing and problem skin. It is also appropriate for hair care designed to enhance and focus on scalp therapy.