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Hot Ingredient: Apple Juice, Fruit and Seed Extract

Nica Lewis

From www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com E-newsletter

The use of apple extract (INCI: Pyrus malus extract) in skin care has grown steadily since 2003. In the first half of 2008, it increased by nearly 30% over the same period in 2007. This acidic, vitamin-rich fruit appears in face and body care in both mass-market and selective distribution. Apple fruit, juice and seeds are found in recent launches of antiaging, anti-acne and brightening products.

Fresh's Appleseed Brightening Essence contains apple fruit extract as well as apple and strawberry seed oils to nourish, protect and soften. The key active ingredient is a vitamin C derivative that claims to reduce dark spots over time and even out skin tone. It also contains mulberry to lighten the skin and raspberry root for its antiaging properties.

Apple fruit extract’s antiaging properties are paired with salicylic acid for an acne treatment in Patricia Wexler M.D. AcneScription Regimen MMPi.20 Anti-Aging Acne Serum. This product claims to actively treat and help prevent breakouts, diminish redness associated with acne and visibly reduce blemishes. It also helps to firm skin and reduce lines and imperfections.

In M.A.C Strobe Cream, the antioxidants in apple, grape seed and green tea are combined with iridescent particles to offer what the company terms the "ultimate quick fix." It claims to brighten, clarify and enhance the effects of light on all skin in all lighting conditions. The product is also formulated with mimosa bark and mulberry root for their whitening propeperties and Scutellaria baicalensis root extract as an antioxidant.

The combination of apple and green tea is also found in Sophyto Polyphenol Skin Drops. The active complex of organic polyphenol compounds also contains organic olive leaf extract and fermented red grapes. Sophyto describes itself as "eco-premium" skin care recommended by dermatologists, plastic surgeons and antiaging physicians. It has UK Soil Association organic certification, and the products reportedly do not contain petrochemicals, triclosan, mineral oils, non-organic or synthetic fragrances or colors, polysorbates, ethanolamides, alkyl sulphates or alkyl ethyl sulphates.

Apple extract also appears in body care formulas. Avon Anew Clinical Professional Stretch Mark Smoother claims to correct and help prevent the formation of stretch marks. It also is said to improve the appearance of cellulite and work on skin tone. It contains a variety of stimulating plant-based ingredients including soybean, coffee seed, apple root, carrot root and fennel.

Another body product formulated with apple is Body By Sonya Dakar Verbena Cypress Omega Hydrator. It incorporates the antioxidants apple, acerola, papaya and an organic omega-3 complex. Nourishing apricot kernel oil, sweet almond extract, vitamin E and shea butter soften the skin. This product is not tested on animals and is free from parabens, artificial dyes, fragrances and animal by-products. 

Antiaging skin care increasingly features stem-cell based technology and terminology. One ingredient supplier has already capitalized on apple extract in this way. Mibelle Biolchemistry introduced a new antiaging active derived from apple stem cells at in-cosmetics in April 2008. PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica is based on the callus cells of a rare Swiss apple tree species. The company has developed a method to cultivate large quantities of the plant cells in the laboratory from plants that are rare, protected, seasonal or otherwise unavailable. The internal fluid of these plant cells contains components that the company claims help protect and maintain the function of human stem cells. The cells are also thought to contain metabolites to ensure longevity as the apples of the Uttwiler Spätlauber species keep well over long periods of time.

Given apple’s health benefits and its purported ability to keep the doctor away, this fruit is expected to have a long life in skin care.

-Nica Lewis, Mintel

The Mintel Global New Products Database (GNPD) tracks new product launches, trends and innovations internationally. The Mintel Beauty Innovation service tracks mass-market and luxury cosmetic innovations in the US, France, the UK and Japan. For additional information regarding either Mintel GNPD or Mintel Beauty Innovation, visit www.gnpd.com or call Mintel International at 1-312-932-0600.

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