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Silab has created an active from peach tree leaves that slows the signs of aging by stimulating cells to repair and protect themselves. The anti-aging activity of Vitagenyl (INCI: Prunus Persica Extract) is based on hormesis, a principle describing a positive biological response to low doses of toxins or stressors.
The peach leaf extract is rich in purified α-glucans, which stimulate the expression of vitagenes, a group of genes involves in cell homeostatis that encode for stress-resistant proteins such as heat shock proteins (HSPs), thioredoxin and sirtuin-1 (SIRT-1). This hormetic action contributes to the skin’s capacity to prepare skin cells to protect against future stressors.
To test the active’s ability to stimulate the expression of vitagenes, the company evaluated the expression of mRNA coding for HSP72, HSP32, thioredoxin and SIRT-1. At 1%, the peach active was found to increase HSP72 and HSP32 by 22% and 31%, respectively. In addition, it increased the antioxidant protein thioredoxin by 17% and SIRT-1 by 30%. The expression of these proteins reinforces the capacity of human fibroblasts to respond to stress.
In a dose-dependent and hormetic manner, 1% of the peach extract stimulated the viability of fibroblasts in a depleted medium by 22% and increased Ki67 synthesis by 39%, exhibiting its action on cell growth and fibroblast proliferation, respectively. Finally, the extract was tested at 3% in vivo for its anti-wrinkle action. While 70% of the volunteers noted a decrease in crow’s-feet wrinkles, 61% showed a reduction in roughness parameters and 56% showed a reduction in wrinkle volume.