This protocol is designed to address stubborn melasma, a common condition in clients with an equatorial-region heritage, without creating undue inflammation in the skin.
Duration: 30 minutes
Contraindications: Pregnant and lactating women, those with hypersensitive skin or those with a known allergy to any of the ingredients listed should not receive this treatment.
Supplies and equipment needed:
• Cotton pads
• Warm water
• Cotton swab
• Fan brush
• Lactic acid-, gluconolactone- and aloe vera-based cleanser
• Kojic and azelaic acid cleansing bar
• Vitamin-enhanced, alpha hydroxy toner
• Trichloroacetic (TCA) and lactic acid chemical peel
• Modified and enhanced Jessner’s solution with lightening ingredients
• Phenylethyl resorcinol, kojic acid, azelaic acid and lactic acid corrective product
• Retinoid complex, alpha arbutin, licorice root extract, and kojic, L-ascorbic and lactic acid corrective product
• 15% L-ascorbic acid cream
• Antioxidant serum
• Gentle skin-lightening product with phenylethyl resorcinol, alpha arbutin and undecylenoyl phenylalanine
• Calming balm
• Eye product with peptides
• Calming hydrator
• Broad-spectrum sunscreen
Step 1: Ask the client to complete a consultation form. Before the treatment, discuss any issues of concern regarding the form. Next, walk the client to the treatment room and ask her to lay face up on the treatment table.
Step 2: Cleanse the area to be treated thoroughly with a lactic acid-, gluconolactone- and aloe vera-based cleanser. Rinse and pat dry.
Step 3: Using a kojic and azelaic acid cleansing bar, cleanse the skin a second time. Allow the lather to remain on the skin for approximately two minutes. Remove using cotton pads dampened with warm water.
Step 4: Prep the skin with a vitamin-enhanced, alpha hydroxy toner using a cotton pad. Allow the skin to dry. Assess sensitivity by asking the client, “On a scale of one to 10, with 10 being extremely active, how do you rate this sensation (or feeling)?”
Step 5: Apply a blended chemical peel solution containing TCA and lactic acid to a cotton pad. Follow manufacturer’s layering guidelines and keep in mind the needs, goals and individual sensitivity of the clients. Use the scale of one to 10 mentioned previously to gauge sensitivity.
Step 6: With a cotton swab, spot-treat specific areas of concern using a modified and enhanced Jessner’s solution containing additional lightening ingredients, such as kojic and citric acids.
Step 7: Spot-treat specific melasma patches using a phenylethyl resorcinol, kojic acid, azelaic acid and lactic acid corrective product.
Step 8: Apply a corrective product containing retinoid complex, alpha arbutin, licorice root extract, and kojic, L-ascorbic and lactic acids to promote an even complexion.
Step 9: Apply a combination of a 15% L-ascorbic acid cream with an antioxidant serum to help fight against free-radical damage and promote an even skin tone.
Step 10: Apply a gentle skin-lightening product with phenylethyl resorcinol, alpha arbutin and undecylenoyl phenylalanine to the entire treatment area to encourage an even skin tone while calming and soothing the skin.
Step 11: Using a small fan brush or gloved hands, apply a thin layer of a calming balm to the area of treatment to reduce redness and soothe irritation.
Step 12: Gently apply an eye product containing peptides around the delicate eye area to reduce the appearance of dark circles, puffiness, fine lines and wrinkles.
Step 13: Combine a calming hydrator with a broad-spectrum sunscreen product to soothe and protect the skin from UVA and UVB exposure.