As men reach their 40s, 50s and beyond, the visual and physical signs of aging have officially set in. At this point, there is a significant decrease in collagen and elastin fibers, skin has lost moisture content, deeper set wrinkles become apparent, and male clients may be battling discoloration issues.
Men at this age have also experienced more years of sun exposure, likely without any protective barrier between their skin and damaging UV rays. As a skin care professional, be on the lookout for suspicious marks. Keep in mind, according to the American Cancer Society there will be an estimated 45,060 new cases of melanoma of the skin among men in 2013, which is nearly 13,500 more cases than women.2 If you spot something irregular, refer the client to a dermatologist right away.
For treating the signs of aging, a progressive peel will help increase hydration and collagen production, refine pores, correct discoloration and refresh the skin overall. Start with a deep cleanse using an L-lactic acid-based cleanser, followed by a second cleanse with salicylic pads. The combination of an enzyme application followed by a peel treatment using a rice wine, pyruvic and phytic acid solution will rejuvenate the skin and provide good exfoliation. Finish with a cocktail of antioxidants and retinol to rebuild the skin, as well as a sun protection formula.
For routine home care, after the skin has fully healed, a cleanser, granular exfoliator, skin-firming peptide formula, eye cream and mineral-based sunscreen will help clients rejuvenate and maintain healthy skin.
Because men’s skin is thicker, it tends to age better than that of their female counterparts. This is also an age group that will primarily benefit from good cleansing and protection practices. Equip clients with a good cleanser, toner and sunscreen for daily home care.
As men reach their mid-to-late 30s, the visual signs of aging may begin to set in. Fine lines and wrinkles start to develop, and some discoloration can occur as skin thins slightly and collagen production begins to decline. Years of exposure to environmental elements may begin to show their effects.
It’s also worth noting that adult acne can be an issue for some men. In fact, approximately 25% of men battle adult acne.3 In the treatment room, minimize the signs of aging and also treat acne by using mild solutions that cause cell turnover, such as papain enzymes or sake-based acids that repair and build the skin. You might also introduce other modalities, such as microdermabrasion and LED, to help reverse damage, stimulate collagen production and smooth fine lines.
For men, the 20s can be a transitional period for skin or it may be when their skin is at its healthiest. Many factors will come into play here. Hormone levels are still evening out and lifestyle habits also impact the skin’s appearance. Male clients in their 20s may still be in need of an acne regimen. For those with healthy skin, consider focusing more on damage prevention and maintaining skin health. This is an important time to talk to men about protecting and cleansing their skin, especially since many in this age group spend a lot of time outdoors and exercising.
Some other issues men commonly deal with in their 20s include pseudofolliculitis (ingrown hairs and razor bumps) and moisture loss. Giving them the tools early on will help maintain hydration and prevent a lifetime of uncomfortable post-shaving conditions.
Again, cleansing is essential. Doing so before a shave will clear away oil and debris and soften the hair, making for an easier shave. Gels—more so than foams and soaps—also help retain hydration and allow the razor to glide more easily, reducing over-shaving. You might also provide male clients with a skin-building toner to help reduce razor burn, breakouts and ingrown hairs.
When working with adolescent male clients, there is an opportunity to set the foundation for proper skin care. Doing so will help them stave off premature aging and other skin issues that may appear as they age. Of course, one primary common concern among this group is acne. Focus on educating them about proper cleansing techniques and how to protect their skin from the damaging effects of environmental elements.
Select a facial cleanser that uses salicylic or lactic acid to exfoliate, hydrate and provide antibacterial support. Other beneficial ingredients include blue agave for its moisturizing and antibacterial support, and minerals, such as zeolite, a natural mineral from volcanic ash that traps and cleans up toxins, and boosts skin’s immunity.
Remind them to quickly cleanse after workouts, gym class or practice, and arm them with cleansing pads containing salicylic acid. This will help continue the exfoliation and cleansing process, take care of any excess oil and remove dirt from the skin.
In the treatment room, perform a deep cleanse, followed by an active papain enzyme application, to help soften comedones, allowing for easier extraction, and promoting healthy skin. A clay mask with bentonite or kaolin will help draw out toxins and prevent pores from clogging. Be sure to rebuild the skin with a cocktail of peptides, stone extracts—such as rhodochrosite—and hyaluronic acid to hydrate and nourish the skin.