|
Ingredient |
Mechanism of action |
Presentation(s) treated |
Preventive |
Corrective |
|
Sunscreen agents |
• Reflect or absorb UV radiation |
•Wrinkling •Coarsening •Dehydration • Hyperpigmentation |
X |
X |
|
Retinoids (retinoic acid, retinaldehyde, retinol, retinyl palmitate, etc.) |
• Increase fibroblast and collagen production • Encourage proliferation of elastin and hyaluronic acid • Induce desquamation and increased cell turnover • Decrease collagenase and elastase levels (MMPi) • Antioxidant • Inhibits melanogenesis |
• Wrinkling • Coarsening • Dehydration • Hyperpigmentation |
X |
X |
|
L-ascorbic acid |
• Stabilizes collagen • Increases fibroblast and collagen production • Reduces collagenase synthesis (MMPi) • Antioxidant • Reduces post-inflammatory and UV-induced erythema • Inhibits melanogenesis |
• Wrinkling • Dehydration • Hyperpigmentation |
X |
X |
|
Polyphenols (resveratrol, EGCG, soy isoflavones) |
Prevent and reverse free radical damage Reduce inflammation Protect against DNA damage (skin cancer) |
• Wrinkling • Coarsening • Dehydration • Hyperpigmentation |
X |
|
|
Peptides |
• Multiple options, but many stimulate collagen production |
• Wrinkling |
X |
|
|
|
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|
Melanogenesis inhibitors (hydroquinone, kojic acid, lactic acid, azelaic acid, licorice extract, etc.) |
• Inhibit the pigment-producing process at various points |
• Hyperpigmentation |
X |
X |
|
Humectants (glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid, etc.) |
• Attract water moisture from the dermis into the epidermis |
• Dehydration |
X |
X |
|
Occlusives (dimethicone, shea butter, niacinamide, various oils) |
• Seal in water moisture |
• Dehydration |
X |
X |
|
Matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPi) (vitamin E, beta-carotene, aloe vera) |
• Inhibit the overproduction of MMP enzymes |
• Wrinkling • Coarsening • Dehydration • Hyperpigmentation |
X |
X |