Ingredients That Address Sun Damage

 

Ingredient

Mechanism of action

Presentation(s) treated

Preventive

Corrective

Sunscreen agents

• Reflect or absorb UV radiation

•Wrinkling

•Coarsening

•Dehydration • Hyperpigmentation

X

X

Retinoids (retinoic acid, retinaldehyde, retinol, retinyl palmitate, etc.)

• Increase fibroblast and collagen production

• Encourage proliferation of elastin and hyaluronic acid

• Induce desquamation and increased cell turnover

• Decrease collagenase and elastase levels (MMPi)

• Antioxidant

• Inhibits melanogenesis

• Wrinkling

• Coarsening

• Dehydration

• Hyperpigmentation

X

X

L-ascorbic acid

• Stabilizes collagen

• Increases fibroblast and collagen production

• Reduces collagenase synthesis (MMPi)

• Antioxidant

• Reduces post-inflammatory and UV-induced erythema

• Inhibits melanogenesis

• Wrinkling

• Dehydration

• Hyperpigmentation

X

X

Polyphenols (resveratrol, EGCG, soy isoflavones)

Prevent and reverse free radical damage

Reduce inflammation

Protect against DNA damage (skin cancer)

• Wrinkling

• Coarsening

• Dehydration

• Hyperpigmentation

X

 

Peptides

• Multiple options, but many stimulate collagen production

• Wrinkling

 

X

   

 

   

Melanogenesis inhibitors (hydroquinone, kojic acid, lactic acid, azelaic acid, licorice extract, etc.)

• Inhibit the pigment-producing process at various points

• Hyperpigmentation

X

X

Humectants (glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid, etc.)

• Attract water moisture from the dermis into the epidermis

• Dehydration

X

X

Occlusives (dimethicone, shea butter, niacinamide, various oils)

• Seal in water moisture

• Dehydration

X

X

Matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPi) (vitamin E, beta-carotene, aloe vera)

• Inhibit the overproduction of MMP enzymes

• Wrinkling

• Coarsening

• Dehydration

• Hyperpigmentation

X

X