Retail Tips: Hyperpigmentation and Skin of Color

For successful spa retail: Blends of melanogenesis-inhibiting ingredients should be incorporated into daily care regimens for clients working to reduce hyperpigmentation.

Some successful spa treatment options: Gentle, blended chemical peels that increase cell turnover and remove surface-darkened cells without the excessive inflammation that can stimulate melanin production can be of great benefit. Although such blended peels will speed the improvement of skin discoloration, it is critical that clients with dark skin or mixed racial heritage are not treated with highly active peel solutions or laser treatments that can incur excessive inflammation and lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Overly aggressive peels (medium and deep) can not only cause additional hyperpigmentation, but can also stimulate the formation of keloids, the excess growth of scar tissue at the site of a healed skin injury. A series of superficial peels is the safest option for higher Fitzpatrick clients. The typical frequency of treatment for hyperpigmentation is every three weeks, and can involve the following peeling agents: Jessner’s solutions, alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), beta hydroxy acids (BHA), trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and retinoids.